कलमकारी

The tradition & historical record

Kalamkari, also commonly spelled as qalamkari, is an ancient textile printing art, that originated in the Indian state of Andhra Pradesh. Kalamkari gained popularity in the South India during the reign of Vijayanagara Empire. Kalam implies 'pen' and Kari means 'art', a name given by the Mughals when they discovered the art during their reign over the Deccan region. Only natural dyes are used in Kalamkari, which involves twenty-three steps. There are two main styles of Kalamkari in India. The hand painted style that is largely practised in the town of Srikalahasti and block printed that is practised in the town of Machilipatnam, both located in Andhra Pradesh. Both styles are registered as Geographical Indications from Andhra Pradesh under handicraft goods, with the Srikalahasti style registered in 2005 and the Machilipatnam style in 2008, under the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999. Srikalahasti style of Kalamkari, where the "kalam" or pen is used for freehand drawing of the subject and filling in the colours, is entirely hand worked. It is produced in Srikalahasti of Tirupati district of Andhra Pradesh. This style flourished in temples centred on creating unique religious identities, appearing on scrolls, temple hangings, chariot banners as well as depictions of deities and scenes taken from the Hindu epics (e.g. Ramayana, Mahabharata and Purana). ¹

Kalamkari used to be termed as Pattachitra, the term "Pattachitra" (Sanskrit: पट्टचित्र) translates to "patta", meaning "cloth", with "chitra" meaning "picture". Paintings made on fabric and fabric scrolls are mentioned in ancient Hindu, Buddhist and Jain literature. It was originally referred to as “Vraata Pani” (‘Vraata’ meaning writing and ‘pani’ meaning work) in the native Telugu language. When Southern India was under medieval Islamic rule, the term Kalamkari was derived from the Persian words kalam, which means "pen", and kari, which means "craftsmanship". This term became popular under the patronage of the Golconda sultanate. ¹

Kalamkari is an ancient textile printing art form that evolved about 3000 years ago in the state of Andhra Pradesh. The discovery of a resist dyed piece of cloth on a silver vase at the ancient site of Harappa (c. 2600 BC) of the Bronze Age Indus Valley Civilisation confirms that the tradition of Pattachitra is very ancient. ¹

According to some sources, the oldest piece of Kalamkari fabric is from the 4th century BC in the tomb of the Scythes Seven Brothers of Lazia; which featured a vine pattern on the edge, which recalls the mixed Persian and Greek design traditions. Kalamkari style of architecture originated in machilipatnam. Musicians and painters, known as chitrakars, moved from village to tell the village dwellers the stories of Hindu mythology. They illustrated their accounts using large bolts of canvas painted on the spot with simple means and dyes extracted from plants. Similarly, the ones found in Hindu temples are large panels of Kalamkari depicting the episodes of Hindu mythology and iconography, similar to Buddhist Thangka paintings. The Mughals who patronised this craft in the Coromandel and Golconda province called the practitioners of this craft "Qualamkars", from which the term "Kalamkari" evolved. The Pedana Kalamkari craft made in Pedana nearby Machilipatnam in Krishna district, Andhra Pradesh, evolved under the patronage of the Mughals and the Golconda sultanate. Owing to the said patronage, this school was influenced by Persian art under Islamic rule. ¹

Srikalahasti Kalamkari ¹

The Kalahasti style is produced in Srikalahasti of Tirupati district. A "kalam" or pen is used for freehand drawing of the subject and filling in the colours and is entirely hand worked. This style flourished in temples centred on creating unique religious identities, appearing on scrolls, temple hangings, chariot banners as well as depictions of deities and scenes taken from the Hindu epics. As a result, it has a distinct religious identity and thrives on mythological themes. The attractive blend of colours on the fabrics usually portrays characters from the Indian mythology, with the divinity figures of Brahma, Saraswati, Ganesh, Durga, Shiva and Parvati as the main source of inspiration. The Kalahasti artists generally depict on the cloth the deities, scenes from the epic Ramayana, the Mahabharata, Puranas and other mythological classics mainly producing scrolls, temple backcloths, wall hangings, chariot banners and the like. In ancient times, the common man learned of gods and goddesses, and of their mythical character from these paintings. Groups of singers, musicians and painters, called chitrakattis, moved from village to village narrating the great stories of the Hindu mythology. Progressively, during the course of history, they illustrated their accounts using large bolts of canvas painted on the spot with rudimentary means and dyes extracted from plants. Thus, it is believed, was born the first Kalamkari. It was registered as one of the geographical indication from Andhra Pradesh, under handicraft goods by Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999. ¹

In the Middle Ages, the term was also used to refer to the making of any cotton fabric patterned through the medium of vegetable dyes by free-hand and block-printing, produced in many regions of India. In places where the fabric is block printed, the kalam (pen) is used to draw finer details and for application of some colours. ¹

The first step in creating Kalamkari is steeping it in astringents and buffalo milk and then drying it under the sun. Afterwards, the red, black, brown, and violet portions of the designs are outlined with a mordant and cloth are then placed in a bath of alizarin. The next step is to cover the cloth, except for the parts to be dyed blue, in wax, and immerse the cloth in indigo dye. The wax is then scraped off and the remaining areas are painted by hand, similar to Indonesian batik. To create design contours, artists use a bamboo or date palm stick pointed at one end with a bundle of fine hair attached to this pointed end to serve as the brush or pen. This pen is soaked in a mixture of jaggery and water; one by one these are applied, then the vegetable dyes are added. In Isfahan, Iran, the fabric is printed using patterned wooden stamps or metal stamps. ¹

The text above is adapted from the Wikipedia article “Kalamkari”, available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 licence. ¹

kalamkari is traditional textile decoration technique of Andhra Pradesh combining hand-painting and block-printing on mordanted fabric, according to the structured record cited below. This entry was generated automatically from that record and has not yet been reviewed by a person familiar with the tradition. ²

The source record links this tradition to 6 external registers, which can be verified through the citation. ²